How to attach cable mounting points to a bicycle frame?Cable Stop For Internal Cable RoutingCan a bike frame be retrofitted with internal cable routing without Disassembly?How to route shifter cables along frame to a Rohloff external gear mech?Is this brake cable alignment correct or problematic?Internal cable routing blocked on '80s steel frame. What are my options?Panasonic/Tange brake cable guide removal and replacementHydraulic to mechanical conversion - cable routingIs shift cable protector under bottom bracket on cyclocross bike important?Can I upgrade to newer groupsets despite my frame not supporting internal cable routing?Prevent internally-routed cable housing from vibrating against frame
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How to attach cable mounting points to a bicycle frame?
Cable Stop For Internal Cable RoutingCan a bike frame be retrofitted with internal cable routing without Disassembly?How to route shifter cables along frame to a Rohloff external gear mech?Is this brake cable alignment correct or problematic?Internal cable routing blocked on '80s steel frame. What are my options?Panasonic/Tange brake cable guide removal and replacementHydraulic to mechanical conversion - cable routingIs shift cable protector under bottom bracket on cyclocross bike important?Can I upgrade to newer groupsets despite my frame not supporting internal cable routing?Prevent internally-routed cable housing from vibrating against frame
I have a frame-building project that is near completion: An old 90ies steel MTB frame was cut, and converted into a frame for a cargo bike.
In my enthusiasm, I have overlooked one detail: The original routing of the shift cables (shown in the photo below in green) is not possible any more, because
- the frontal mounting points near the position of the former head tube were cut off (schematically shown in blue in the attached sketch), and
- the cargo beam is attached below the bottom bracket, and therefore takes/blocks the former place of the shift cable guide.
My idea is now to re-route the shift cables along the top tube, as schematically shown in yellow in the photo.
However, I'm still missing the mounting points. If possible, I would like to avoid removing the paint and start welding again. Are there any options, like some cable casing mounting points that can be attached with screws, clamps, or something alike?
Since I believe that this could be interesting to any person that likes to tinker with old bike frames, I'm putting my question here.
shifting framebuilding cable-routing
asked 8 hours ago
Donat HolzerDonat Holzer
3465
add a comment |
I have a frame-building project that is near completion: An old 90ies steel MTB frame was cut, and converted into a frame for a cargo bike.
In my enthusiasm, I have overlooked one detail: The original routing of the shift cables (shown in the photo below in green) is not possible any more, because
- the frontal mounting points near the position of the former head tube were cut off (schematically shown in blue in the attached sketch), and
- the cargo beam is attached below the bottom bracket, and therefore takes/blocks the former place of the shift cable guide.
My idea is now to re-route the shift cables along the top tube, as schematically shown in yellow in the photo.
However, I'm still missing the mounting points. If possible, I would like to avoid removing the paint and start welding again. Are there any options, like some cable casing mounting points that can be attached with screws, clamps, or something alike?
Since I believe that this could be interesting to any person that likes to tinker with old bike frames, I'm putting my question here.
shifting framebuilding cable-routing
asked 8 hours ago
Donat HolzerDonat Holzer
3465
add a comment |
I have a frame-building project that is near completion: An old 90ies steel MTB frame was cut, and converted into a frame for a cargo bike.
In my enthusiasm, I have overlooked one detail: The original routing of the shift cables (shown in the photo below in green) is not possible any more, because
- the frontal mounting points near the position of the former head tube were cut off (schematically shown in blue in the attached sketch), and
- the cargo beam is attached below the bottom bracket, and therefore takes/blocks the former place of the shift cable guide.
My idea is now to re-route the shift cables along the top tube, as schematically shown in yellow in the photo.
However, I'm still missing the mounting points. If possible, I would like to avoid removing the paint and start welding again. Are there any options, like some cable casing mounting points that can be attached with screws, clamps, or something alike?
Since I believe that this could be interesting to any person that likes to tinker with old bike frames, I'm putting my question here.
shifting framebuilding cable-routing
asked 8 hours ago
Donat HolzerDonat Holzer
3465
I have a frame-building project that is near completion: An old 90ies steel MTB frame was cut, and converted into a frame for a cargo bike.
In my enthusiasm, I have overlooked one detail: The original routing of the shift cables (shown in the photo below in green) is not possible any more, because
- the frontal mounting points near the position of the former head tube were cut off (schematically shown in blue in the attached sketch), and
- the cargo beam is attached below the bottom bracket, and therefore takes/blocks the former place of the shift cable guide.
My idea is now to re-route the shift cables along the top tube, as schematically shown in yellow in the photo.
However, I'm still missing the mounting points. If possible, I would like to avoid removing the paint and start welding again. Are there any options, like some cable casing mounting points that can be attached with screws, clamps, or something alike?
Since I believe that this could be interesting to any person that likes to tinker with old bike frames, I'm putting my question here.
shifting framebuilding cable-routing
shifting framebuilding cable-routing
asked 8 hours ago
Donat HolzerDonat Holzer
3465
asked 8 hours ago
Donat HolzerDonat Holzer
3465
asked 8 hours ago
Donat HolzerDonat Holzer
3465
asked 8 hours ago
Donat HolzerDonat Holzer
3465
asked 8 hours ago
Donat HolzerDonat Holzer
3465
3465
add a comment |
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
I'd go with full housing for both brake and gear cables and hold the cables on with cable clamps. There are many kinds of cable clamps to choose from. I prefer the type that have a screw clamp over the clip on type. The key will be finding clamps for your tubing diameter.
If you need to have cable stops there are clamp on versions from a variety of vendors. problemsolversbike.com has a variety of solutions for tricky problems.
Items linked are examples and not endorsements.
answered 8 hours ago
David DDavid D
1,871110
Cable stops! So my futile search was probably due to the fact that I was missing the correct words for what I need. From a quick glance at your links, and an additional search, this solution will be functional, easy to implement, and aesthetically pleasing. Thank you very much!
– Donat Holzer
7 hours ago
1
In old days end to end housing was always the way it was done. With a RD or brakes there's no problem whether the housing goes all the way through. With the FD it might be trickier if the derailleur lacks a housing stop. There's just the point to consider that long housings are more compressible and the precision of shifting/indexing or the strength of braking is maybe 'softer', so chose quality housing.
– Carel
7 hours ago
There are advantages and disadvantages to using full length housings. The plus side the cables are protected and essentially weatherproof. The downside is the length equates a lot of drag (resistance) for the inner cable to move solely on return spring pressure.
– mikes
6 hours ago
There are also rivet attached versions of anything you might need. cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/…
– renesis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
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1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
I'd go with full housing for both brake and gear cables and hold the cables on with cable clamps. There are many kinds of cable clamps to choose from. I prefer the type that have a screw clamp over the clip on type. The key will be finding clamps for your tubing diameter.
If you need to have cable stops there are clamp on versions from a variety of vendors. problemsolversbike.com has a variety of solutions for tricky problems.
Items linked are examples and not endorsements.
answered 8 hours ago
David DDavid D
1,871110
Cable stops! So my futile search was probably due to the fact that I was missing the correct words for what I need. From a quick glance at your links, and an additional search, this solution will be functional, easy to implement, and aesthetically pleasing. Thank you very much!
– Donat Holzer
7 hours ago
1
In old days end to end housing was always the way it was done. With a RD or brakes there's no problem whether the housing goes all the way through. With the FD it might be trickier if the derailleur lacks a housing stop. There's just the point to consider that long housings are more compressible and the precision of shifting/indexing or the strength of braking is maybe 'softer', so chose quality housing.
– Carel
7 hours ago
There are advantages and disadvantages to using full length housings. The plus side the cables are protected and essentially weatherproof. The downside is the length equates a lot of drag (resistance) for the inner cable to move solely on return spring pressure.
– mikes
6 hours ago
There are also rivet attached versions of anything you might need. cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/…
– renesis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
I'd go with full housing for both brake and gear cables and hold the cables on with cable clamps. There are many kinds of cable clamps to choose from. I prefer the type that have a screw clamp over the clip on type. The key will be finding clamps for your tubing diameter.
If you need to have cable stops there are clamp on versions from a variety of vendors. problemsolversbike.com has a variety of solutions for tricky problems.
Items linked are examples and not endorsements.
answered 8 hours ago
David DDavid D
1,871110
Cable stops! So my futile search was probably due to the fact that I was missing the correct words for what I need. From a quick glance at your links, and an additional search, this solution will be functional, easy to implement, and aesthetically pleasing. Thank you very much!
– Donat Holzer
7 hours ago
1
In old days end to end housing was always the way it was done. With a RD or brakes there's no problem whether the housing goes all the way through. With the FD it might be trickier if the derailleur lacks a housing stop. There's just the point to consider that long housings are more compressible and the precision of shifting/indexing or the strength of braking is maybe 'softer', so chose quality housing.
– Carel
7 hours ago
There are advantages and disadvantages to using full length housings. The plus side the cables are protected and essentially weatherproof. The downside is the length equates a lot of drag (resistance) for the inner cable to move solely on return spring pressure.
– mikes
6 hours ago
There are also rivet attached versions of anything you might need. cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/…
– renesis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
I'd go with full housing for both brake and gear cables and hold the cables on with cable clamps. There are many kinds of cable clamps to choose from. I prefer the type that have a screw clamp over the clip on type. The key will be finding clamps for your tubing diameter.
If you need to have cable stops there are clamp on versions from a variety of vendors. problemsolversbike.com has a variety of solutions for tricky problems.
Items linked are examples and not endorsements.
answered 8 hours ago
David DDavid D
1,871110
I'd go with full housing for both brake and gear cables and hold the cables on with cable clamps. There are many kinds of cable clamps to choose from. I prefer the type that have a screw clamp over the clip on type. The key will be finding clamps for your tubing diameter.
If you need to have cable stops there are clamp on versions from a variety of vendors. problemsolversbike.com has a variety of solutions for tricky problems.
Items linked are examples and not endorsements.
answered 8 hours ago
David DDavid D
1,871110
answered 8 hours ago
David DDavid D
1,871110
answered 8 hours ago
David DDavid D
1,871110
answered 8 hours ago
David DDavid D
1,871110
1,871110
Cable stops! So my futile search was probably due to the fact that I was missing the correct words for what I need. From a quick glance at your links, and an additional search, this solution will be functional, easy to implement, and aesthetically pleasing. Thank you very much!
– Donat Holzer
7 hours ago
1
In old days end to end housing was always the way it was done. With a RD or brakes there's no problem whether the housing goes all the way through. With the FD it might be trickier if the derailleur lacks a housing stop. There's just the point to consider that long housings are more compressible and the precision of shifting/indexing or the strength of braking is maybe 'softer', so chose quality housing.
– Carel
7 hours ago
There are advantages and disadvantages to using full length housings. The plus side the cables are protected and essentially weatherproof. The downside is the length equates a lot of drag (resistance) for the inner cable to move solely on return spring pressure.
– mikes
6 hours ago
There are also rivet attached versions of anything you might need. cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/…
– renesis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
Cable stops! So my futile search was probably due to the fact that I was missing the correct words for what I need. From a quick glance at your links, and an additional search, this solution will be functional, easy to implement, and aesthetically pleasing. Thank you very much!
– Donat Holzer
7 hours ago
1
In old days end to end housing was always the way it was done. With a RD or brakes there's no problem whether the housing goes all the way through. With the FD it might be trickier if the derailleur lacks a housing stop. There's just the point to consider that long housings are more compressible and the precision of shifting/indexing or the strength of braking is maybe 'softer', so chose quality housing.
– Carel
7 hours ago
There are advantages and disadvantages to using full length housings. The plus side the cables are protected and essentially weatherproof. The downside is the length equates a lot of drag (resistance) for the inner cable to move solely on return spring pressure.
– mikes
6 hours ago
There are also rivet attached versions of anything you might need. cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/…
– renesis
5 hours ago
Cable stops! So my futile search was probably due to the fact that I was missing the correct words for what I need. From a quick glance at your links, and an additional search, this solution will be functional, easy to implement, and aesthetically pleasing. Thank you very much!
– Donat Holzer
7 hours ago
Cable stops! So my futile search was probably due to the fact that I was missing the correct words for what I need. From a quick glance at your links, and an additional search, this solution will be functional, easy to implement, and aesthetically pleasing. Thank you very much!
– Donat Holzer
7 hours ago
1
1
In old days end to end housing was always the way it was done. With a RD or brakes there's no problem whether the housing goes all the way through. With the FD it might be trickier if the derailleur lacks a housing stop. There's just the point to consider that long housings are more compressible and the precision of shifting/indexing or the strength of braking is maybe 'softer', so chose quality housing.
– Carel
7 hours ago
In old days end to end housing was always the way it was done. With a RD or brakes there's no problem whether the housing goes all the way through. With the FD it might be trickier if the derailleur lacks a housing stop. There's just the point to consider that long housings are more compressible and the precision of shifting/indexing or the strength of braking is maybe 'softer', so chose quality housing.
– Carel
7 hours ago
There are advantages and disadvantages to using full length housings. The plus side the cables are protected and essentially weatherproof. The downside is the length equates a lot of drag (resistance) for the inner cable to move solely on return spring pressure.
– mikes
6 hours ago
There are advantages and disadvantages to using full length housings. The plus side the cables are protected and essentially weatherproof. The downside is the length equates a lot of drag (resistance) for the inner cable to move solely on return spring pressure.
– mikes
6 hours ago
There are also rivet attached versions of anything you might need. cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/…
– renesis
5 hours ago
There are also rivet attached versions of anything you might need. cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/…
– renesis
5 hours ago
add a comment |
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