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Technic beam centering for beam with even length


When did LEGO decide that it was okay to put a stud into a Technic hole?How much weight can a handle of Technic pegs and beams support?Good LEGO CAD Design Software with Technic elements and animationHow to make a conveyor belt with LEGO parts?Part Identification - bricks with postsIdentify brick with internal battery, light and soundWhat part(s) can I use to connect modules at a 90 degree angle?Why are Technic holes slightly smaller than studs?Does a 1x3 Lego technic liftarm with two round holes and one axle socket exist? (for tank suspension usage)Is it legal to sell a custom element that provides a Technic pin connection?






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1















I design stereo camera housing for robotics (3d printing). I want the housing to be able to connect to both LEGO Classic and LEGO Technic blocks. I designed 2 groups of 4x4 holes/pins on the bottom/top of the case for LEGO Classic. This works fine using the camera as "intermediary" piece (connecting bricks both from bottom and top and incorporating the camera into a LEGO robot).



However I also want Technic to mate the camera. I came up with holes for Technic pins which make some of the "Classic" holes deeper. The problem is Technic uses odd number for beams so they can center with one hole. Is there a part (maybe 2-sided double-beam) that would connect even to odd and allowed me to center the camera on LEGO Technic properly?



Sure I could move the holes one step to sides (make beam 5 fit) but that would produce the same problem on the Classic side (centering, using 7x2 or 8x2 instead of 6x2).



Camera bottom side (hole in the center is for tripod screw):



enter image description here



Camera top side:



enter image description here










share|improve this question
































    1















    I design stereo camera housing for robotics (3d printing). I want the housing to be able to connect to both LEGO Classic and LEGO Technic blocks. I designed 2 groups of 4x4 holes/pins on the bottom/top of the case for LEGO Classic. This works fine using the camera as "intermediary" piece (connecting bricks both from bottom and top and incorporating the camera into a LEGO robot).



    However I also want Technic to mate the camera. I came up with holes for Technic pins which make some of the "Classic" holes deeper. The problem is Technic uses odd number for beams so they can center with one hole. Is there a part (maybe 2-sided double-beam) that would connect even to odd and allowed me to center the camera on LEGO Technic properly?



    Sure I could move the holes one step to sides (make beam 5 fit) but that would produce the same problem on the Classic side (centering, using 7x2 or 8x2 instead of 6x2).



    Camera bottom side (hole in the center is for tripod screw):



    enter image description here



    Camera top side:



    enter image description here










    share|improve this question




























      1












      1








      1








      I design stereo camera housing for robotics (3d printing). I want the housing to be able to connect to both LEGO Classic and LEGO Technic blocks. I designed 2 groups of 4x4 holes/pins on the bottom/top of the case for LEGO Classic. This works fine using the camera as "intermediary" piece (connecting bricks both from bottom and top and incorporating the camera into a LEGO robot).



      However I also want Technic to mate the camera. I came up with holes for Technic pins which make some of the "Classic" holes deeper. The problem is Technic uses odd number for beams so they can center with one hole. Is there a part (maybe 2-sided double-beam) that would connect even to odd and allowed me to center the camera on LEGO Technic properly?



      Sure I could move the holes one step to sides (make beam 5 fit) but that would produce the same problem on the Classic side (centering, using 7x2 or 8x2 instead of 6x2).



      Camera bottom side (hole in the center is for tripod screw):



      enter image description here



      Camera top side:



      enter image description here










      share|improve this question
















      I design stereo camera housing for robotics (3d printing). I want the housing to be able to connect to both LEGO Classic and LEGO Technic blocks. I designed 2 groups of 4x4 holes/pins on the bottom/top of the case for LEGO Classic. This works fine using the camera as "intermediary" piece (connecting bricks both from bottom and top and incorporating the camera into a LEGO robot).



      However I also want Technic to mate the camera. I came up with holes for Technic pins which make some of the "Classic" holes deeper. The problem is Technic uses odd number for beams so they can center with one hole. Is there a part (maybe 2-sided double-beam) that would connect even to odd and allowed me to center the camera on LEGO Technic properly?



      Sure I could move the holes one step to sides (make beam 5 fit) but that would produce the same problem on the Classic side (centering, using 7x2 or 8x2 instead of 6x2).



      Camera bottom side (hole in the center is for tripod screw):



      enter image description here



      Camera top side:



      enter image description here







      part-identification technic compatibility design robotic






      share|improve this question















      share|improve this question













      share|improve this question




      share|improve this question








      edited 9 hours ago







      Kozuch

















      asked 9 hours ago









      KozuchKozuch

      1363 bronze badges




      1363 bronze badges























          2 Answers
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          2














          Hmm... I don't know... I personally, wouldn't try to reinvent pin placement of Technic parts and Studs. I'm not saying being creative that way is too challenging. What I am saying is that, we should work with examples, or in this case parts that already bridge Classic stud width with Technic holes.



          Placing pins where the studs belong seems akin to reinventing the wheel, when we could be building off the long work history already put into the wheel's design, and spring board off that instead.



          With that said, I'd point you to a Technic 2 x 4 plate with three holes.



          enter image description here



          Replicate it, split it in half (lengthwise), and embed the top on to the top of the camera housing. Take the split bottom half and embed that into the bottom of the camera housing.



          Visually, to me, the stud width of your design looks like a Technic 2x6, but there seems to be enough room to jam a Technic 2x8 in there.



          enter image description here



          enter image description here



          For my brain to work I like pictures. So, for piece inspiration I'd go to Bricklink's database and just type "pin", "pins" or "holes" and look at the pictures of parts that have a key word in them. Doing this expands the possibilities of what could be done to make your design solid.



          enter image description here



          enter image description here



          enter image description here



          enter image description here



          Also for me, it easier to reverse engineer things I see. So, for ideas I would BL search these parts, look up the sets that they were in, and watch a Youtube speed build of one of these Technic sets (Remember, we can also speedup YT playback with the settings "gear".) to see how the part was used, and maybe come across an ingenious way someone mated Classic studs with Technic pinage.






          share|improve this answer


































            1














            What if you had anti-studs where you want them, at stud-depth, but also overlaid technic holes at full technic pin depth where you want them? This would lead to a complicated, non-standard arrangement, but if you look at, eg, the new 2x1 jumper plates, they are designed to allow a stud in the middle between the two normal anti-studs. Since you have two different depths here, it might be possible to make the technic pins still click properly.



            Failing that you could just not provide the full set of technic holes and instead spread them around outside the studs.






            share|improve this answer

























            • Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)

              – Kozuch
              5 hours ago











            • Rin Rio-Oki's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.

              – Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
              4 hours ago













            Your Answer








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            2 Answers
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            2 Answers
            2






            active

            oldest

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            active

            oldest

            votes






            active

            oldest

            votes









            2














            Hmm... I don't know... I personally, wouldn't try to reinvent pin placement of Technic parts and Studs. I'm not saying being creative that way is too challenging. What I am saying is that, we should work with examples, or in this case parts that already bridge Classic stud width with Technic holes.



            Placing pins where the studs belong seems akin to reinventing the wheel, when we could be building off the long work history already put into the wheel's design, and spring board off that instead.



            With that said, I'd point you to a Technic 2 x 4 plate with three holes.



            enter image description here



            Replicate it, split it in half (lengthwise), and embed the top on to the top of the camera housing. Take the split bottom half and embed that into the bottom of the camera housing.



            Visually, to me, the stud width of your design looks like a Technic 2x6, but there seems to be enough room to jam a Technic 2x8 in there.



            enter image description here



            enter image description here



            For my brain to work I like pictures. So, for piece inspiration I'd go to Bricklink's database and just type "pin", "pins" or "holes" and look at the pictures of parts that have a key word in them. Doing this expands the possibilities of what could be done to make your design solid.



            enter image description here



            enter image description here



            enter image description here



            enter image description here



            Also for me, it easier to reverse engineer things I see. So, for ideas I would BL search these parts, look up the sets that they were in, and watch a Youtube speed build of one of these Technic sets (Remember, we can also speedup YT playback with the settings "gear".) to see how the part was used, and maybe come across an ingenious way someone mated Classic studs with Technic pinage.






            share|improve this answer































              2














              Hmm... I don't know... I personally, wouldn't try to reinvent pin placement of Technic parts and Studs. I'm not saying being creative that way is too challenging. What I am saying is that, we should work with examples, or in this case parts that already bridge Classic stud width with Technic holes.



              Placing pins where the studs belong seems akin to reinventing the wheel, when we could be building off the long work history already put into the wheel's design, and spring board off that instead.



              With that said, I'd point you to a Technic 2 x 4 plate with three holes.



              enter image description here



              Replicate it, split it in half (lengthwise), and embed the top on to the top of the camera housing. Take the split bottom half and embed that into the bottom of the camera housing.



              Visually, to me, the stud width of your design looks like a Technic 2x6, but there seems to be enough room to jam a Technic 2x8 in there.



              enter image description here



              enter image description here



              For my brain to work I like pictures. So, for piece inspiration I'd go to Bricklink's database and just type "pin", "pins" or "holes" and look at the pictures of parts that have a key word in them. Doing this expands the possibilities of what could be done to make your design solid.



              enter image description here



              enter image description here



              enter image description here



              enter image description here



              Also for me, it easier to reverse engineer things I see. So, for ideas I would BL search these parts, look up the sets that they were in, and watch a Youtube speed build of one of these Technic sets (Remember, we can also speedup YT playback with the settings "gear".) to see how the part was used, and maybe come across an ingenious way someone mated Classic studs with Technic pinage.






              share|improve this answer





























                2












                2








                2







                Hmm... I don't know... I personally, wouldn't try to reinvent pin placement of Technic parts and Studs. I'm not saying being creative that way is too challenging. What I am saying is that, we should work with examples, or in this case parts that already bridge Classic stud width with Technic holes.



                Placing pins where the studs belong seems akin to reinventing the wheel, when we could be building off the long work history already put into the wheel's design, and spring board off that instead.



                With that said, I'd point you to a Technic 2 x 4 plate with three holes.



                enter image description here



                Replicate it, split it in half (lengthwise), and embed the top on to the top of the camera housing. Take the split bottom half and embed that into the bottom of the camera housing.



                Visually, to me, the stud width of your design looks like a Technic 2x6, but there seems to be enough room to jam a Technic 2x8 in there.



                enter image description here



                enter image description here



                For my brain to work I like pictures. So, for piece inspiration I'd go to Bricklink's database and just type "pin", "pins" or "holes" and look at the pictures of parts that have a key word in them. Doing this expands the possibilities of what could be done to make your design solid.



                enter image description here



                enter image description here



                enter image description here



                enter image description here



                Also for me, it easier to reverse engineer things I see. So, for ideas I would BL search these parts, look up the sets that they were in, and watch a Youtube speed build of one of these Technic sets (Remember, we can also speedup YT playback with the settings "gear".) to see how the part was used, and maybe come across an ingenious way someone mated Classic studs with Technic pinage.






                share|improve this answer















                Hmm... I don't know... I personally, wouldn't try to reinvent pin placement of Technic parts and Studs. I'm not saying being creative that way is too challenging. What I am saying is that, we should work with examples, or in this case parts that already bridge Classic stud width with Technic holes.



                Placing pins where the studs belong seems akin to reinventing the wheel, when we could be building off the long work history already put into the wheel's design, and spring board off that instead.



                With that said, I'd point you to a Technic 2 x 4 plate with three holes.



                enter image description here



                Replicate it, split it in half (lengthwise), and embed the top on to the top of the camera housing. Take the split bottom half and embed that into the bottom of the camera housing.



                Visually, to me, the stud width of your design looks like a Technic 2x6, but there seems to be enough room to jam a Technic 2x8 in there.



                enter image description here



                enter image description here



                For my brain to work I like pictures. So, for piece inspiration I'd go to Bricklink's database and just type "pin", "pins" or "holes" and look at the pictures of parts that have a key word in them. Doing this expands the possibilities of what could be done to make your design solid.



                enter image description here



                enter image description here



                enter image description here



                enter image description here



                Also for me, it easier to reverse engineer things I see. So, for ideas I would BL search these parts, look up the sets that they were in, and watch a Youtube speed build of one of these Technic sets (Remember, we can also speedup YT playback with the settings "gear".) to see how the part was used, and maybe come across an ingenious way someone mated Classic studs with Technic pinage.







                share|improve this answer














                share|improve this answer



                share|improve this answer








                edited 3 hours ago

























                answered 5 hours ago









                Rin Rio-OkiRin Rio-Oki

                3,5741 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges




                3,5741 gold badge6 silver badges20 bronze badges


























                    1














                    What if you had anti-studs where you want them, at stud-depth, but also overlaid technic holes at full technic pin depth where you want them? This would lead to a complicated, non-standard arrangement, but if you look at, eg, the new 2x1 jumper plates, they are designed to allow a stud in the middle between the two normal anti-studs. Since you have two different depths here, it might be possible to make the technic pins still click properly.



                    Failing that you could just not provide the full set of technic holes and instead spread them around outside the studs.






                    share|improve this answer

























                    • Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)

                      – Kozuch
                      5 hours ago











                    • Rin Rio-Oki's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.

                      – Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
                      4 hours ago















                    1














                    What if you had anti-studs where you want them, at stud-depth, but also overlaid technic holes at full technic pin depth where you want them? This would lead to a complicated, non-standard arrangement, but if you look at, eg, the new 2x1 jumper plates, they are designed to allow a stud in the middle between the two normal anti-studs. Since you have two different depths here, it might be possible to make the technic pins still click properly.



                    Failing that you could just not provide the full set of technic holes and instead spread them around outside the studs.






                    share|improve this answer

























                    • Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)

                      – Kozuch
                      5 hours ago











                    • Rin Rio-Oki's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.

                      – Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
                      4 hours ago













                    1












                    1








                    1







                    What if you had anti-studs where you want them, at stud-depth, but also overlaid technic holes at full technic pin depth where you want them? This would lead to a complicated, non-standard arrangement, but if you look at, eg, the new 2x1 jumper plates, they are designed to allow a stud in the middle between the two normal anti-studs. Since you have two different depths here, it might be possible to make the technic pins still click properly.



                    Failing that you could just not provide the full set of technic holes and instead spread them around outside the studs.






                    share|improve this answer













                    What if you had anti-studs where you want them, at stud-depth, but also overlaid technic holes at full technic pin depth where you want them? This would lead to a complicated, non-standard arrangement, but if you look at, eg, the new 2x1 jumper plates, they are designed to allow a stud in the middle between the two normal anti-studs. Since you have two different depths here, it might be possible to make the technic pins still click properly.



                    Failing that you could just not provide the full set of technic holes and instead spread them around outside the studs.







                    share|improve this answer












                    share|improve this answer



                    share|improve this answer










                    answered 6 hours ago









                    Mr. Shiny and New 安宇Mr. Shiny and New 安宇

                    4,4281 gold badge11 silver badges40 bronze badges




                    4,4281 gold badge11 silver badges40 bronze badges















                    • Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)

                      – Kozuch
                      5 hours ago











                    • Rin Rio-Oki's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.

                      – Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
                      4 hours ago

















                    • Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)

                      – Kozuch
                      5 hours ago











                    • Rin Rio-Oki's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.

                      – Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
                      4 hours ago
















                    Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)

                    – Kozuch
                    5 hours ago





                    Thanks for great hint! I think the technic pins will make it and click, but the classic anti-studs may connect a bit looser since the technic holes will be just horizontally in the middle between the classic anti-studs and will interfere with them. But I could make the classic anti-stud diameter a bit smaller to fix that. I think it will work! I tried to have clean and "nice" design so this solution has not come to my mind. It will be a bit ugly but will work better! :)

                    – Kozuch
                    5 hours ago













                    Rin Rio-Oki's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.

                    – Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
                    4 hours ago





                    Rin Rio-Oki's example of the 2x4 plate with technic holes shows the concept even better than what I imagined, because of course you can fit the technic holes betwen the studs if you offset them in that way. That is a proven design, I guess.

                    – Mr. Shiny and New 安宇
                    4 hours ago

















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                    Кастелфранко ди Сопра Становништво Референце Спољашње везе Мени за навигацију43°37′18″ СГШ; 11°33′32″ ИГД / 43.62156° СГШ; 11.55885° ИГД / 43.62156; 11.5588543°37′18″ СГШ; 11°33′32″ ИГД / 43.62156° СГШ; 11.55885° ИГД / 43.62156; 11.558853179688„The GeoNames geographical database”„Istituto Nazionale di Statistica”проширитиууWorldCat156923403n850174324558639-1cb14643287r(подаци)