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How do I reattach a shelf to the wall when it ripped out of the wall?



Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Unicorn Meta Zoo #1: Why another podcast?How can I attach a shelf to a tile wall in a repairable manner?What kind of screws/bolts do I need to mount a heavy TV mount?Can I use lag bolts when mounting heavy shelf units through 2 layer drywall?How do I remove molding with out damaging the molding or the wall?How to get broken screw out of wall anchorNeed help mounting a TV to the wallHow to take out a screw on wallHow do I mount this towel rack that was ripped off the wall?Hanging large TV and media cabinet on cement block covered with drywallHow to support this shelf?



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5















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question
























  • How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    11 hours ago











  • I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago






  • 3





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    7 hours ago


















5















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question
























  • How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    11 hours ago











  • I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago






  • 3





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    7 hours ago














5












5








5


1






I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole










share|improve this question
















I had attached a shelf to my wall using the hardware that came with the shelf, but then it came crashing down in the middle of the night and all of my stuff came down with it.



The hardware came from Home Depot, I don't remember the name, but there are two pieces, one is pictured below. They were rated for 30 pounds IIRC, and I only had 8 board games and 10 small books of sheet music on the shelf - I don't think I overloaded it.



I drilled holes in the wall, hammered in the plastic bits, and drove the screws into the plastic bits. There are wooden studs where they were placed.



  • Did I install the shelf wrong, or did I put too much weight on it?

  • When I put the shelf back up, should I use a different method? longer screws? do I need to get new plastic thingies?

hardware and a hole







mounting shelf






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 1 hour ago









Machavity

8,66522043




8,66522043










asked 15 hours ago









Jakob WeisblatJakob Weisblat

1305




1305












  • How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    11 hours ago











  • I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago






  • 3





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    7 hours ago


















  • How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

    – Sean
    11 hours ago











  • I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago






  • 3





    What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

    – Stilez
    7 hours ago

















How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

– Sean
11 hours ago





How heavy are the board games in question? Did you weigh the contents of the shelf to be sure that they aren't heavier than you thought?

– Sean
11 hours ago













I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

– Jakob Weisblat
11 hours ago





I weighed them by picking them all up - I don't think they're more than ~10-15 pounds combined. But it sounds like I wasn't using the anchors entirely right.

– Jakob Weisblat
11 hours ago




3




3





What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

– Stilez
7 hours ago






What was the structure of the wall you tried to attach it to? I can't make out from the photo if it's drywall (plasterboard), soft concrete block (aerated concrete) or poor condition brickwork with plaster. The answer will differ depending which it is.

– Stilez
7 hours ago











3 Answers
3






active

oldest

votes


















10














There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



Anchors



Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



Screws Into Studs



The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



  • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

  • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





share|improve this answer




















  • 3





    Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

    – Mark
    14 hours ago











  • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago











  • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

    – manassehkatz
    11 hours ago











  • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

    – Darrel Hoffman
    11 hours ago







  • 1





    Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

    – Phil Frost
    56 mins ago


















5














Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






share|improve this answer

























  • Whoa, these things are cool!

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago






  • 3





    Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

    – Martin Bonner
    3 hours ago











  • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

    – Owain
    2 hours ago


















5














It was installed incorrectly.



It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



Here's an example from NPA:



enter image description here



You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






share|improve this answer























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    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

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    3 Answers
    3






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

    votes






    active

    oldest

    votes









    10














    There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



    Anchors



    Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



    A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



    You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



    Screws Into Studs



    The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



    With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



    • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

    • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





    share|improve this answer




















    • 3





      Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

      – Mark
      14 hours ago











    • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

      – Jakob Weisblat
      11 hours ago











    • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

      – manassehkatz
      11 hours ago











    • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

      – Darrel Hoffman
      11 hours ago







    • 1





      Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

      – Phil Frost
      56 mins ago















    10














    There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



    Anchors



    Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



    A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



    You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



    Screws Into Studs



    The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



    With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



    • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

    • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





    share|improve this answer




















    • 3





      Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

      – Mark
      14 hours ago











    • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

      – Jakob Weisblat
      11 hours ago











    • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

      – manassehkatz
      11 hours ago











    • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

      – Darrel Hoffman
      11 hours ago







    • 1





      Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

      – Phil Frost
      56 mins ago













    10












    10








    10







    There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



    Anchors



    Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



    A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



    You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



    Screws Into Studs



    The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



    With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



    • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

    • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.





    share|improve this answer















    There are two typical ways to attach a shelf (or heavy mirror or whatever) to a wall with screws:



    Anchors



    Anchors are the "plastic things". They come in various sizes/strengths - 30 lb. rating is typical. The way you normally use them is with a hollow wall. In other words, you don't use them if you are mounting over a stud. You drill a hole - or normally I just poke a hole with a screwdriver if the wall is made of drywall - in the wall slightly smaller than the anchor. Then push the anchor in, narrow end first, so that the wide end is flush with the wall surface. Place the shelf support over the anchor and drive the supplied screw through the support and into the anchor. The anchor will expand slightly, hopefully providing a tight grip on the drywall.



    A variant is a toggle bolt, where a part goes through the wall, flips/expands and is pulled to the inside of the wall when you put in the screw from the outside. I prefer toggle bolts as they are a bit stronger than typical anchors.



    You actually should not use an anchor (and impossible to use a toggle bolt) if you are mounting right over a stud. If you use a power drill then you could make enough of a hole in the stud for the anchor, but it really won't hold very well and it is not designed to be used that way.



    Screws Into Studs



    The gold standard is long screws into studs. With wood studs (metal is also possible but a little different), you typically drill a pilot hole through drywall and into the stud. Then hold the shelf support over the hole and drive a long screw through the support into the stud. Typically I would use 2" - 3" screws. You don't want to use screws that are too long in case there are wires running through the middle of the studs, but you do want to get around an inch or so into the stud, plus 1/2" for drywall plus ???? for the shelf support - so 2" is typical.



    With screws into 2 studs, a shelf or cabinet can support a LOT of weight. But if you can only get into 1 stud due to factors beyond your control, then you can either:



    • Use screws into one stud and use anchors for the other support(s). This will stabilize the shelf quite a bit compared to anchors alone.

    • Mount a strip of wood horizontally into 2 studs and then use wood screws to attach the shelf supports to the wood. This will also normally be quite strong.






    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited 13 hours ago

























    answered 14 hours ago









    manassehkatzmanassehkatz

    11.3k1542




    11.3k1542







    • 3





      Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

      – Mark
      14 hours ago











    • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

      – Jakob Weisblat
      11 hours ago











    • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

      – manassehkatz
      11 hours ago











    • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

      – Darrel Hoffman
      11 hours ago







    • 1





      Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

      – Phil Frost
      56 mins ago












    • 3





      Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

      – Mark
      14 hours ago











    • I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

      – Jakob Weisblat
      11 hours ago











    • I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

      – manassehkatz
      11 hours ago











    • Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

      – Darrel Hoffman
      11 hours ago







    • 1





      Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

      – Phil Frost
      56 mins ago







    3




    3





    Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

    – Mark
    14 hours ago





    Good answer. I'm not at all surprised that the shelf fell if that's all that was holding it. Nearly every time I buy something that mounts on the wall, it comes with those little plastic things. I almost always throw them away and either mount it directly to the studs, or use toggle or Molly bolts.

    – Mark
    14 hours ago













    I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago





    I reattached the shelf with the same screws, but with pilot holes into the studs and no anchors. It seems to be holding up well so far. If the screws are 3" long and the threads are slightly wider than my #10 screws', how much weight do you imagine it might hold?

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago













    I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

    – manassehkatz
    11 hours ago





    I would think easily 50 lbs. or more. But that is with 3" (or at 2-1/2") screws, definitely not with the screws from the anchors.

    – manassehkatz
    11 hours ago













    Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

    – Darrel Hoffman
    11 hours ago






    Should add that depending on the length of the shelf, additional supports might be required in the middle to prevent the shelf board from sagging or cracking under the weight.

    – Darrel Hoffman
    11 hours ago





    1




    1





    Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

    – Phil Frost
    56 mins ago





    Poking a hole with a screwdriver is likely to blow out a big chunk of drywall and/or tear the paper on the back face where you can't see it, consequently weakening the drywall right where it's most critical for anchor strength. I definitely wouldn't recommend it. Use a drill, or a self-drilling anchor.

    – Phil Frost
    56 mins ago













    5














    Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



    Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
    That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



    Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






    share|improve this answer

























    • Whoa, these things are cool!

      – Jakob Weisblat
      11 hours ago






    • 3





      Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

      – Martin Bonner
      3 hours ago











    • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

      – Owain
      2 hours ago















    5














    Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



    Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
    That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



    Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






    share|improve this answer

























    • Whoa, these things are cool!

      – Jakob Weisblat
      11 hours ago






    • 3





      Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

      – Martin Bonner
      3 hours ago











    • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

      – Owain
      2 hours ago













    5












    5








    5







    Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



    Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
    That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



    Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047






    share|improve this answer















    Manassehkatz's answer provides good information. However looking at your photo, it appears you have some type of plastic expansion anchor of some sort.



    Because it's now out of the wall, I expect that you did not screw it down hard enough.
    That type of anchor should be tightened down so the anchor components are compressed outwards behind the wallboard and prevent the anchor from being pulled back through the hole. Depending on the type, you can try that outside the wall to get a feel for how it's supposed to work.



    Kind of like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-in-Pop-Toggle-with-Screw-6-Pack-376255/202243047







    share|improve this answer














    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer








    edited 11 hours ago

























    answered 11 hours ago









    DaveMDaveM

    1,004415




    1,004415












    • Whoa, these things are cool!

      – Jakob Weisblat
      11 hours ago






    • 3





      Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

      – Martin Bonner
      3 hours ago











    • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

      – Owain
      2 hours ago

















    • Whoa, these things are cool!

      – Jakob Weisblat
      11 hours ago






    • 3





      Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

      – Martin Bonner
      3 hours ago











    • This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

      – Owain
      2 hours ago
















    Whoa, these things are cool!

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago





    Whoa, these things are cool!

    – Jakob Weisblat
    11 hours ago




    3




    3





    Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

    – Martin Bonner
    3 hours ago





    Note that the OP says "There are wooden studs where [the fixings] were placed." Those plastic expansion anchors are not designed to go into studs.

    – Martin Bonner
    3 hours ago













    This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

    – Owain
    2 hours ago





    This site suggests a 1" woodscrew into reasonable wood will hold 100 lbs. engineeringtoolbox.com/…

    – Owain
    2 hours ago











    5














    It was installed incorrectly.



    It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



    Here's an example from NPA:



    enter image description here



    You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



    When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






    share|improve this answer



























      5














      It was installed incorrectly.



      It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



      Here's an example from NPA:



      enter image description here



      You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



      When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






      share|improve this answer

























        5












        5








        5







        It was installed incorrectly.



        It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



        Here's an example from NPA:



        enter image description here



        You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



        When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.






        share|improve this answer













        It was installed incorrectly.



        It appears what you have in the picture is a knotting anchor. Near the tip of the plastic sleeve is a threaded section. Properly installed, tightening the screw should pull the far end of the sleeve up against the wall, making a thick "knot" that prevents the anchor from pulling through the wall. Since your failed anchor looks smooth and undeformed, this evidently did not happen.



        Here's an example from NPA:



        enter image description here



        You say there are wooden studs where the anchors were installed. Perhaps you drilled a hole large enough for the anchor then pushed it into the hole in the stud. Since the body of the anchor was then constrained by the surrounding wood rather than in the empty space behind the wall it was unable to expand. Possibly you also did not tighten the screws with sufficient force.



        When mounting something where there is a wooden stud, the proper procedure is to not use an anchor at all, but just run a wood screw into the stud. The holding power of a wood screw in wood is a lot more than any hollow wall anchor.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered 2 hours ago









        Phil FrostPhil Frost

        465310




        465310



























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