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Child's bike rear wheel wobble


How should the brakes on a child's bike be adjusted?Is it OK for a child's bike to have a radially-laced rear wheel?How high should be the handle of a balance bike for a 35 inches tall kid?Rear rack or similar storage options for child's bike (16" wheels)Get off bike on crosswalk?A two successive wheel trailer ; would it work? (followme-tandem)Rear Wheel Jamming on kids bike after Training WheelsCost of lending out a child's bike?Tightening the bolts on training wheels for a child's Schwin bikeWhat to put after taking off rear stabilisers from child bicyle?






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3















I removed the stabilisers from my child's bike, but now when she rides there is a clicking noise and you can noticeably see the rear wheel wobble slightly, and the chain comes off frequently because if it.(wheel moves horizontally not vertically).
I tried tightening the nuts but then it makes the wheel very hard to spin/turn.
I'm assuming it is now requiring something to hold the axel n placeenter image description here










share|improve this question







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  • Adding a photo of the axle once the wheel is out from the frame could make it clearer - I wonder if the silver locknut is on the wrong side of the frame, or if you have an extra nut/spacer left over from the training wheels.

    – Criggie
    6 hours ago











  • I kinda suspect that you removed a locknut that needs to be there. I've taken off a few sets of training wheels, and it's sometimes not obvious which parts should be left on the axle and which should be removed.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    5 hours ago

















3















I removed the stabilisers from my child's bike, but now when she rides there is a clicking noise and you can noticeably see the rear wheel wobble slightly, and the chain comes off frequently because if it.(wheel moves horizontally not vertically).
I tried tightening the nuts but then it makes the wheel very hard to spin/turn.
I'm assuming it is now requiring something to hold the axel n placeenter image description here










share|improve this question







New contributor



T3rm3y is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • Adding a photo of the axle once the wheel is out from the frame could make it clearer - I wonder if the silver locknut is on the wrong side of the frame, or if you have an extra nut/spacer left over from the training wheels.

    – Criggie
    6 hours ago











  • I kinda suspect that you removed a locknut that needs to be there. I've taken off a few sets of training wheels, and it's sometimes not obvious which parts should be left on the axle and which should be removed.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    5 hours ago













3












3








3








I removed the stabilisers from my child's bike, but now when she rides there is a clicking noise and you can noticeably see the rear wheel wobble slightly, and the chain comes off frequently because if it.(wheel moves horizontally not vertically).
I tried tightening the nuts but then it makes the wheel very hard to spin/turn.
I'm assuming it is now requiring something to hold the axel n placeenter image description here










share|improve this question







New contributor



T3rm3y is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











I removed the stabilisers from my child's bike, but now when she rides there is a clicking noise and you can noticeably see the rear wheel wobble slightly, and the chain comes off frequently because if it.(wheel moves horizontally not vertically).
I tried tightening the nuts but then it makes the wheel very hard to spin/turn.
I'm assuming it is now requiring something to hold the axel n placeenter image description here







children






share|improve this question







New contributor



T3rm3y is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.










share|improve this question







New contributor



T3rm3y is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.








share|improve this question




share|improve this question






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asked 8 hours ago









T3rm3yT3rm3y

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  • Adding a photo of the axle once the wheel is out from the frame could make it clearer - I wonder if the silver locknut is on the wrong side of the frame, or if you have an extra nut/spacer left over from the training wheels.

    – Criggie
    6 hours ago











  • I kinda suspect that you removed a locknut that needs to be there. I've taken off a few sets of training wheels, and it's sometimes not obvious which parts should be left on the axle and which should be removed.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    5 hours ago

















  • Adding a photo of the axle once the wheel is out from the frame could make it clearer - I wonder if the silver locknut is on the wrong side of the frame, or if you have an extra nut/spacer left over from the training wheels.

    – Criggie
    6 hours ago











  • I kinda suspect that you removed a locknut that needs to be there. I've taken off a few sets of training wheels, and it's sometimes not obvious which parts should be left on the axle and which should be removed.

    – Daniel R Hicks
    5 hours ago
















Adding a photo of the axle once the wheel is out from the frame could make it clearer - I wonder if the silver locknut is on the wrong side of the frame, or if you have an extra nut/spacer left over from the training wheels.

– Criggie
6 hours ago





Adding a photo of the axle once the wheel is out from the frame could make it clearer - I wonder if the silver locknut is on the wrong side of the frame, or if you have an extra nut/spacer left over from the training wheels.

– Criggie
6 hours ago













I kinda suspect that you removed a locknut that needs to be there. I've taken off a few sets of training wheels, and it's sometimes not obvious which parts should be left on the axle and which should be removed.

– Daniel R Hicks
5 hours ago





I kinda suspect that you removed a locknut that needs to be there. I've taken off a few sets of training wheels, and it's sometimes not obvious which parts should be left on the axle and which should be removed.

– Daniel R Hicks
5 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















1














The chain drops because the chain's tension is too loose when the wheel was reinstalled. But that's secondary - first is to get the axle spinning right.



You've managed to loosen the cone nuts that form part of the bearing surface for the rear wheel. Then by tightening them the bearings can't roll smoothly.



The fix is hard to explain in words - lets try. Start by getting the wheel out of the bike by loosening the two outside nuts, slide wheel forward, flip the chain off the cog, and then slide wheel out the back.



Here's a cutaway of a generic rear enter image description here



Or another view of the same area
enter image description here



There are three nuts on each side of the hub - the big one on the outside that holds the wheel to the frame dropouts, and then two more on the inside of the frame. The thin one is called the locknut and the innermost one is called a cone nut



First, figure out which side of the wheel has loose nuts. We need to tighten the cone nut to the point the axle has minimal perceptible movement sideways, but is still free to rotate. Too loose and it clangs around like a bell-clapper. Too tight and it can't rotate smoothly. Need to find that sweet-spot.



Then once you've found it, the cone nut needs to be held still while the locknut is tightened down on top of it. These two nuts together can't move in or out (hence locknut) The proper tool for this job is a thin spanner called a cone spanner, looking like this:



https://image.dhgate.com/0x0/f2/albu/g6/M00/64/7D/rBVaSFsgjn6ASL1GAACAaWQhGGQ564.jpg



As you can see they're super-thin and often made out of pressed steel. They're quite specialist, but can be made if you're handy, or bought cheaply from on-line sources. A single 13/14/15/16mm one could be a few dollars.



Another photo showing how to use a cone spanner in cooperation with a regular spanner on the locknut.



From https://cycleseven.org/servicing-my-shimano-deore-hub



This all sounds complex but its really not - more dirty than complex. Someone handy with bikes can fix this in a few minutes, less than it took to write this up.






share|improve this answer
































    1














    The axle is held in place by the nuts that are visible in the picture. You should be able to tighten them so that the wheel does not move without stopping them from rotating.



    From the description it sounds like your hub has loose lock nuts and attempting to tighten the wheel nuts interferes with bearing adjustment. You need to adjust the bearings and tighten the lock nuts before installing the wheel. One set of instructions for that can be found here. If this looks complicated, any repair shop should be able to do it, and if you bought the bike at a local store it should be covered by warranty.






    share|improve this answer



























      Your Answer








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      2 Answers
      2






      active

      oldest

      votes








      2 Answers
      2






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      1














      The chain drops because the chain's tension is too loose when the wheel was reinstalled. But that's secondary - first is to get the axle spinning right.



      You've managed to loosen the cone nuts that form part of the bearing surface for the rear wheel. Then by tightening them the bearings can't roll smoothly.



      The fix is hard to explain in words - lets try. Start by getting the wheel out of the bike by loosening the two outside nuts, slide wheel forward, flip the chain off the cog, and then slide wheel out the back.



      Here's a cutaway of a generic rear enter image description here



      Or another view of the same area
      enter image description here



      There are three nuts on each side of the hub - the big one on the outside that holds the wheel to the frame dropouts, and then two more on the inside of the frame. The thin one is called the locknut and the innermost one is called a cone nut



      First, figure out which side of the wheel has loose nuts. We need to tighten the cone nut to the point the axle has minimal perceptible movement sideways, but is still free to rotate. Too loose and it clangs around like a bell-clapper. Too tight and it can't rotate smoothly. Need to find that sweet-spot.



      Then once you've found it, the cone nut needs to be held still while the locknut is tightened down on top of it. These two nuts together can't move in or out (hence locknut) The proper tool for this job is a thin spanner called a cone spanner, looking like this:



      https://image.dhgate.com/0x0/f2/albu/g6/M00/64/7D/rBVaSFsgjn6ASL1GAACAaWQhGGQ564.jpg



      As you can see they're super-thin and often made out of pressed steel. They're quite specialist, but can be made if you're handy, or bought cheaply from on-line sources. A single 13/14/15/16mm one could be a few dollars.



      Another photo showing how to use a cone spanner in cooperation with a regular spanner on the locknut.



      From https://cycleseven.org/servicing-my-shimano-deore-hub



      This all sounds complex but its really not - more dirty than complex. Someone handy with bikes can fix this in a few minutes, less than it took to write this up.






      share|improve this answer





























        1














        The chain drops because the chain's tension is too loose when the wheel was reinstalled. But that's secondary - first is to get the axle spinning right.



        You've managed to loosen the cone nuts that form part of the bearing surface for the rear wheel. Then by tightening them the bearings can't roll smoothly.



        The fix is hard to explain in words - lets try. Start by getting the wheel out of the bike by loosening the two outside nuts, slide wheel forward, flip the chain off the cog, and then slide wheel out the back.



        Here's a cutaway of a generic rear enter image description here



        Or another view of the same area
        enter image description here



        There are three nuts on each side of the hub - the big one on the outside that holds the wheel to the frame dropouts, and then two more on the inside of the frame. The thin one is called the locknut and the innermost one is called a cone nut



        First, figure out which side of the wheel has loose nuts. We need to tighten the cone nut to the point the axle has minimal perceptible movement sideways, but is still free to rotate. Too loose and it clangs around like a bell-clapper. Too tight and it can't rotate smoothly. Need to find that sweet-spot.



        Then once you've found it, the cone nut needs to be held still while the locknut is tightened down on top of it. These two nuts together can't move in or out (hence locknut) The proper tool for this job is a thin spanner called a cone spanner, looking like this:



        https://image.dhgate.com/0x0/f2/albu/g6/M00/64/7D/rBVaSFsgjn6ASL1GAACAaWQhGGQ564.jpg



        As you can see they're super-thin and often made out of pressed steel. They're quite specialist, but can be made if you're handy, or bought cheaply from on-line sources. A single 13/14/15/16mm one could be a few dollars.



        Another photo showing how to use a cone spanner in cooperation with a regular spanner on the locknut.



        From https://cycleseven.org/servicing-my-shimano-deore-hub



        This all sounds complex but its really not - more dirty than complex. Someone handy with bikes can fix this in a few minutes, less than it took to write this up.






        share|improve this answer



























          1












          1








          1







          The chain drops because the chain's tension is too loose when the wheel was reinstalled. But that's secondary - first is to get the axle spinning right.



          You've managed to loosen the cone nuts that form part of the bearing surface for the rear wheel. Then by tightening them the bearings can't roll smoothly.



          The fix is hard to explain in words - lets try. Start by getting the wheel out of the bike by loosening the two outside nuts, slide wheel forward, flip the chain off the cog, and then slide wheel out the back.



          Here's a cutaway of a generic rear enter image description here



          Or another view of the same area
          enter image description here



          There are three nuts on each side of the hub - the big one on the outside that holds the wheel to the frame dropouts, and then two more on the inside of the frame. The thin one is called the locknut and the innermost one is called a cone nut



          First, figure out which side of the wheel has loose nuts. We need to tighten the cone nut to the point the axle has minimal perceptible movement sideways, but is still free to rotate. Too loose and it clangs around like a bell-clapper. Too tight and it can't rotate smoothly. Need to find that sweet-spot.



          Then once you've found it, the cone nut needs to be held still while the locknut is tightened down on top of it. These two nuts together can't move in or out (hence locknut) The proper tool for this job is a thin spanner called a cone spanner, looking like this:



          https://image.dhgate.com/0x0/f2/albu/g6/M00/64/7D/rBVaSFsgjn6ASL1GAACAaWQhGGQ564.jpg



          As you can see they're super-thin and often made out of pressed steel. They're quite specialist, but can be made if you're handy, or bought cheaply from on-line sources. A single 13/14/15/16mm one could be a few dollars.



          Another photo showing how to use a cone spanner in cooperation with a regular spanner on the locknut.



          From https://cycleseven.org/servicing-my-shimano-deore-hub



          This all sounds complex but its really not - more dirty than complex. Someone handy with bikes can fix this in a few minutes, less than it took to write this up.






          share|improve this answer













          The chain drops because the chain's tension is too loose when the wheel was reinstalled. But that's secondary - first is to get the axle spinning right.



          You've managed to loosen the cone nuts that form part of the bearing surface for the rear wheel. Then by tightening them the bearings can't roll smoothly.



          The fix is hard to explain in words - lets try. Start by getting the wheel out of the bike by loosening the two outside nuts, slide wheel forward, flip the chain off the cog, and then slide wheel out the back.



          Here's a cutaway of a generic rear enter image description here



          Or another view of the same area
          enter image description here



          There are three nuts on each side of the hub - the big one on the outside that holds the wheel to the frame dropouts, and then two more on the inside of the frame. The thin one is called the locknut and the innermost one is called a cone nut



          First, figure out which side of the wheel has loose nuts. We need to tighten the cone nut to the point the axle has minimal perceptible movement sideways, but is still free to rotate. Too loose and it clangs around like a bell-clapper. Too tight and it can't rotate smoothly. Need to find that sweet-spot.



          Then once you've found it, the cone nut needs to be held still while the locknut is tightened down on top of it. These two nuts together can't move in or out (hence locknut) The proper tool for this job is a thin spanner called a cone spanner, looking like this:



          https://image.dhgate.com/0x0/f2/albu/g6/M00/64/7D/rBVaSFsgjn6ASL1GAACAaWQhGGQ564.jpg



          As you can see they're super-thin and often made out of pressed steel. They're quite specialist, but can be made if you're handy, or bought cheaply from on-line sources. A single 13/14/15/16mm one could be a few dollars.



          Another photo showing how to use a cone spanner in cooperation with a regular spanner on the locknut.



          From https://cycleseven.org/servicing-my-shimano-deore-hub



          This all sounds complex but its really not - more dirty than complex. Someone handy with bikes can fix this in a few minutes, less than it took to write this up.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered 6 hours ago









          CriggieCriggie

          48.3k5 gold badges82 silver badges164 bronze badges




          48.3k5 gold badges82 silver badges164 bronze badges


























              1














              The axle is held in place by the nuts that are visible in the picture. You should be able to tighten them so that the wheel does not move without stopping them from rotating.



              From the description it sounds like your hub has loose lock nuts and attempting to tighten the wheel nuts interferes with bearing adjustment. You need to adjust the bearings and tighten the lock nuts before installing the wheel. One set of instructions for that can be found here. If this looks complicated, any repair shop should be able to do it, and if you bought the bike at a local store it should be covered by warranty.






              share|improve this answer





























                1














                The axle is held in place by the nuts that are visible in the picture. You should be able to tighten them so that the wheel does not move without stopping them from rotating.



                From the description it sounds like your hub has loose lock nuts and attempting to tighten the wheel nuts interferes with bearing adjustment. You need to adjust the bearings and tighten the lock nuts before installing the wheel. One set of instructions for that can be found here. If this looks complicated, any repair shop should be able to do it, and if you bought the bike at a local store it should be covered by warranty.






                share|improve this answer



























                  1












                  1








                  1







                  The axle is held in place by the nuts that are visible in the picture. You should be able to tighten them so that the wheel does not move without stopping them from rotating.



                  From the description it sounds like your hub has loose lock nuts and attempting to tighten the wheel nuts interferes with bearing adjustment. You need to adjust the bearings and tighten the lock nuts before installing the wheel. One set of instructions for that can be found here. If this looks complicated, any repair shop should be able to do it, and if you bought the bike at a local store it should be covered by warranty.






                  share|improve this answer













                  The axle is held in place by the nuts that are visible in the picture. You should be able to tighten them so that the wheel does not move without stopping them from rotating.



                  From the description it sounds like your hub has loose lock nuts and attempting to tighten the wheel nuts interferes with bearing adjustment. You need to adjust the bearings and tighten the lock nuts before installing the wheel. One set of instructions for that can be found here. If this looks complicated, any repair shop should be able to do it, and if you bought the bike at a local store it should be covered by warranty.







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 6 hours ago









                  ojsojs

                  13k2 gold badges23 silver badges46 bronze badges




                  13k2 gold badges23 silver badges46 bronze badges























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                      Smell Mother Skizze Discussion Tachometer Jar Alligator Star 끌다 자세 의문 과학적t Barbaric The round system critiques the connection. Definition: A wind instrument of music in use among the Spaniards Nasty Level 이상 분노 금년 월급 근교 Cloth Owner Permissible Shock Purring Parched Raise 오전 장면 햄 서투르다 The smash instructs the squeamish instrument. Large Nosy Nalpure Chalk Travel Crayon Bite your tongue The Hulk 신호 대사 사과하다 The work boosts the knowledgeable size. Steeplump Level Wooden Shake Teaching Jump 이제 복도 접다 공중전화 부지런하다 Rub Average Ruthless Busyglide Glost oven Didelphia Control A fly on the wall Jaws 지하철 거